It’s awfully hard to get excited about a food called “nutritional yeast flakes.” It sounds like something you either need a prescription to get. Or a prescription to get rid of. Even worse, it resembles yellow flaked fish food. But trust me, this is an ingredient worth looking beyond its name and appearance.

ASSOCIATED PRESS PHOTOThis image shows how nutritional yeast flakes can lend asavoury, cheesy flavour to this winter- friendly pumpkin and white bean soup with sourdough croutons.Nutritional yeast flakes have been around for years, but they are all but unheard of outside the vegan world, which uses them to simulate the flavour of cheese. There’s a reason they use them that way. These flakes are jammed with glutamates, the compounds that give us the savory wonderfulness in Parmesan and steak.

But let’s back up to the basics. Nutritional yeast flakes are produced by growing, harvesting and drying a variety of yeast that is different from that used in baking. The resulting powder is loaded with B vitamins, has two grams of protein per tablespoon and has no fat, sugar, salt or gluten.

And yet it is a flavour powerhouse. Those glutamates ( the same chemicals that give MSG its oomph) add lushly savoury, decidedly cheesy flavour to whatever they touch. That’s why vegans use them to create “cheese” sauces. But you don’t have to be a vegan to appreciate them.

You’ll usually find nutritional yeast flakes in the grocer’s natural foods section, sometimes in shakerstyle canisters ( Bragg is a popular brand), or in the bulk section. So what should you do with them? In general, they need to be added to a recipe with at least some moisture ( the popcorn idea below is the exception).

The most popular use is as a popcorn topping. In a blender, combine a bit of kosher salt and a few tablespoons of yeast flakes. Pulse until finely ground, then toss with buttered ( or oiled, if you’re vegan) popcorn.

Saute small whole button mushrooms in a bit of olive oil. When the mushrooms are browned, season with salt, pepper and yeast flakes. Saute for another minute or two, or until the flakes have dissolved.

PUMPKIN AND WHITE BEAN SOUP

WITH SOURDOUGH CROUTONS

Start to finish: 30 minutes Servings: 6 3 thick slices sourdough bread, cut into cubes 4 tbsp olive oil, divided 4 tbsp nutritional yeast flakes, divided 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/ 4 tsp red pepper flakes 15- ounce can pumpkin puree 15- ounce can white beans ( such as navy),

drained 1 quart ( 4 cups) chicken broth Salt and ground black pepper, to taste Heat the oven to 375 F.

Place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then toss to coat evenly.

Sprinkle 1 tbsp of yeast flakes over the bread, then toss again.

On a rimmed baking sheet, spread the bread in an even layer. Toast for 10 to 15 minutes, or until slightly crunchy, then set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, in a large saucepan over medium- high, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the onion, garlic and red pepper flakes.

Saute until the onion is tender, about 6 minutes. Add the pumpkin, beans and broth. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

Transfer the soup, working in batches if necessary, to a blender and puree until smooth.

Return the soup to the saucepan. Add the remaining 3 tbsp of yeast flakes and stir well. Season the soup with salt and pepper, then ladle into serving bowls and top with the croutons.

Nutrition information per serving ( values are rounded to the nearest whole number):

360 calories; 90 calories from fat ( 26 per cent of total calories); 11 g fat ( 2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 53 g carbohydrate; 16 g protein; 9 g fiber; 700 mg sodium.